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When assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the family utterly astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” says the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small place securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.